Vogue 8865 | Pattern Hack

The long awaited tutorial for my pattern hack of Vogue 8865 has finally arrived. I have made two pairs of trousers using this hack and am definitely going to make at least one more.

The idea for this hack was inspired by a pair of smart hareem style trouser I used to own. When they no longer fit, I took them apart with the intention to make a pattern of the trousers to use. I still intend to, but wanted to see if it would be possible to do a hack on a pattern I already have to recreate them.

Materials needed:

  • Vogue Pattern v8865
  • Pattern paper
  • Pattern Master
  • Pins
  • Pencil
  • Scissors

Preparing the Pattern

Step 1

Trace out a right front and left front of the trousers. Make sure to transfer all markings from the pattern.

Step 2

Find the center of the leg. I chose to use the right leg (as worn) but the instructions can be used for the left leg as well. Draw a line down the center line of the trouser.

Step 3

Mark the knee with a horizontal line. Cut down the center line and across the knee towards the inner leg seam, so that the crouch is removed from the leg.

Step 4

Pin the amended leg pattern onto another sheet of pattern paper and trace round the trouser leg. Transfer all markings and extend all horizontal lines wider than the trouser.

Step 5

Pivot the cut out part of the trouser out to form and enlarged dart. Make sure to keep the crotch on the original line. Once happy with positioning, pin down and trace out.

Step 6

Join up new pattern lines for leg and cut out. Remember to make a mark at each edge of the enlarged section.

Constructing the Trousers

Step 7

Cut out all pattern pieces in fabric, transferring all markings. You will need 2m of fabric for these trousers.

Step 8

Stitch darts into back of trousers.

Step 9

Stitch darts on left front. Stitch single dart in right front and form pleat by stitching edges of enlarged section together.

To hold pleat in place baste along upper edge, keeping 1.5cm free at centre front.

Step 10

Stitch front and back together at inside seam.

Step 11

Stitch crotch. Leaving an opening at the back to insert a zipper.

Step 12

Insert zipper.

Step 13

Interface waistband facing. Stitch side seams and neaten unnotched edge.

Step 14

Ease stitch enlarged section to help fit to waistband facing. Stitch waistband facing to upper edge of trouser.

Understitch waistband. Slipstitch facing to zipper tape and tack to seams.

Step 15

Even out uneven hems.

Step 16

Fold under 1.5cm at hem. Press. Fold under 1.5cm again, and stitch a blind hem.

Step 17

Put on your new trousers.

 

I hope you found this pattern hack useful. To see the steps in action click here and watch the video on my channel.

Until next time,

Ax

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